Last night at dusk we wandered down to Steamer Point probably well known to some of you who receive this letter. It’s a place where in busier and more peaceful times many famous cruise liners, and I imagine, troop ships too, disembarked their passengers. Memories of those days are captured in faded photographs inside the main building. As we walked down onto the quay, a group of Coast Guards breaking their Ramadan fast beckoned us to join them for their evening meal. It was a warm invitation but we declined and walked along the quay. It’s a wonderful time of evening. Once the sun sets, an enormous hush settles over the city. The half hour beforehand, though, is noisy, as cars and little buses rush their passengers home in time for the evening meal. It’s better not to be on the roads just then. As we stood looking out across the harbour, we noticed the crew of a dhow - and there are still many

plying the waters around here – standing, seven or eight of them, by the side of the vessel. Just then the call to prayer issued from the mosque nearby and they fell to their knees in prayer.

It is good to be back. Peter was slightly nervous the night before leaving that perhaps it was unwise to return so soon, but on arrival, even at the airport, it felt like home. Morale in the clinics is good and we’re so thankful to the Reverend Ben and Bobbie Chase for their able and thoughtful leadership during many of the months we were away.

It is good too, to be back in our own apartment after the long but very happy months lodged with family and friends. Shortly before we left for the memorable Socotra visit we moved flats. We left the designated chaplain’s apartment to move to that occupied a little while back by Patricia, the medical clinic’s very dedicated nurse, who died tragically in a car accident near Taiz a few months ago. Patricia's family above

Tom Hamblin , the first director and pastor here, wrote of her, ‘She was always so bubbly with an infectious personality, and was always serving others. She opened her heart and home to so many, and she did not count the hours of the day, she was always ready and on call. The Lord Jesus said of a woman in the Gospel she did what she could and that sums up our treasured memories of Patricia.
 

The previous apartment was spacious and well appointed, and while this one is smaller it has a view over the sea and often catches an evening breeze. It really feels like home and we are grateful. Peter’s limbs and hands continue to improve. We have managed to get into the sea at least twice a week, which is great. A neighbour, Paul, from Belgium, a physiotherapist with Handicap International, has also been helping us with advice and exercises. An Argos exercise ball is proving useful too and is popular with little visitors.

It has been good to see how well many things have continued and developed while we have been away. We were particularly pleased to see that in the Eye Clinic an effective and comprehensive system for keeping patients’, records is now in place. The recruiting of Naguiba, mother of eight and a fully qualified theatre nurse has been a great asset. Her absence – off sick for a few days this week – has been very noticeable. During these rather quieter Ramadan days for the clinics, the eye team have spent a morning each week screening primary school children in one of the poorest parts of Aden. (The city has few affluent parts). It’s a good work, a valuable change and appreciated.

Those familiar with the saga of the lemon trees will be glad to learn that ‘fertilization’ has been successful. There has been discernable growth. We were also glad to have been recognised and welcomed on our return by Millie, the guard dog.

Millie in flight!

We do miss Valentina, our Russian midwife, who served us here so well. She is back in Moscow now where sadly her situation is very difficult. We are looking out for a successor and hope it may be possible to recruit another expatriate Christian, ideally with some experience already of the Arab world.

In the last two months many of Yemen’s Ethiopian community, some 750 in all, have been given asylum in the United States and left. Many were key figures in the Christian fellowships of Sanaa, Taiz and Aden. The contrast between Aden and Los Angeles is great. We miss them but links with that community here remain strong. Tonight Peter continues wedding preparation for one couple and has been asked – by Jaber, chief pastor now of the Aden fellowship – to undertake soon a course on Christian leadership for some of his key members.

Sadness at the departure of so many has been softened a little by new arrivals; The birth of two sturdy boys in the last two weeks. The latest, Nathnael, to Wondwson and Samira, who work here. And in two weeks time Dr Loween who works in the Eye Clinic is due to produce her first child.

Then there is Blessing, the gorgeous five month old daughter of Fatima, conceived in horrible circumstances when she and her brother Paul were fleeing Darfur. They were recently forced to leave the refugee camp where they had been living in Aden, and are now living here at Christ Church. They like others before them have become part of the family. We are very fond of them. A few days ago Fatima, Blessing’s mother, came to ask us what she should say to her daughter when in the future she asks who her father is. She was raped in Darfur. She is a very bright, spirited eighteen year old and a devoted mother. Her situation gives new depths to the phrase which describes God as ‘Father to the fatherless.’

Nancy & Samira and right - Qaid & Anwar
Hayden	School eyescreening

We have not made mention of the medical clinic with which the work here began. It continues well – 54 patients, mostly mothers and their children were seen today, rather more than on most mornings in Ramadan.

The staff of the clinic keep meticulous records of patient numbers, for ourselves and for the health authorities. Numbers are down on this time last year, but this we have discovered is a sad trend in hospital outpatients’ departments and other clinics across the city, attributable in large measure we are told to the serious financial situation of the vast majority of the population. The cost of public transport has almost doubled in the past two months. 43% of the population of Yemen live below the recognized poverty line of subsisting on less than US$2 a day. Every copy of the weekly English language Yemen Times since our return has highlighted one looming national crisis or another – the population growth, outstripped in the middle east only by Gaza, the near exhaustion of Sanaa’s precious water resources, the gross inadequacy of the country’s medical services on which a pitiful 1.3% of GDP is spent. 7% goes on defence expenditure.

“This is nonsense and a waste of money”, wrote columnist Mohammed Hatem al-Adhi in last week’s issue. “Our priority is not buying military aircraft right now but building schools or hospitals. Our priority is not Scud missiles but providing medicine and vaccinations against polio, dengue fever and many other diseases with which our country is plagued.

Ominously but accurately the article continued, “foreign experts, not Yemeni opposition figures are concerned that the war on terror and cooperation with the US in this regard has built up the security capacity of the regime, increasing its repressive capabilities rather than the state’s strength.” That dozens were killed not long ago in nationwide protests against the doubling of fuel prices gives some substance to the author’s words.

This week’s copy of the Yemen Times doesn’t bring much encouragement to the thoughtful reader either; the front page headline read, “Corruption in Yemen still rampant” – and quoted Transparency International’s latest report, which rated Yemen number 103 out of 158 for countries in the world’s corruption league. The article said, “The high level of corruption has been widely noted in other international reports on Yemen, including reports issued by the World Bank, the IMF and the United Nations.” Another headline, this time on an inside page, read, “Yemen on the verge of war?” We don’t think that it is, but what is really remarkable is the stridency and the prevalence of critical writing about the current regime and even the president. But, that this sort of writing is allowed and not seriously restricted is no small ground for hope. The same point was made in a recent editorial from the same newspaper.

How can we celebrate the revolution and our national days when the least of our basic needs are not covered? The gap between the authorities and the people is getting wider day by day. I do not appreciate the fact that the police confiscate my parked car when a government event is about to take place and the officials would like the road to be empty. I don’t appreciate that the roads have been cleaned and repainted for the reason that some guests should be given a better impression of our shabby street that the rest of us cross every day. Neither do I appreciate that our high officials are taking comfort in their high towers. I’m tired of having to struggle every day just to get to my work. However, I do appreciate that I at least have a chance to speak my mind about this and try to convey a message, hoping to reach some ears. Mr President, if you care, you will show it. It’s more than words we have to talk about these days…

Against this harsh and somewhat foreboding outlook the continued cheerfulness, compassion and competence of our staff here is truly remarkable. For ordinary Yemenis, life here is an enormous struggle.

It would be a great encouragement to everyone here if more of our dedicated and very generous supporters could come on over and see this work for themselves. October next year will be the 10th anniversary of the opening of the Ras Morbat centre and the first clinic. We are thinking of celebrating but don’t wait until then.

Some of you may remember that almost a year ago we had an unexpected visit from a dozen or more students and young graduates from South Korea. They appeared at the end of what had been a long morning, the clinics had already closed, the staff had gone but we were still tidying up in the office and thinking of lunch. We were perhaps not quite as welcoming as we could have been, but nonetheless their warmth, interest and joy revived us wonderfully. Before they left we worshipped together in the church. Afterwards one of them asked if she might share a Bible verse, which had come to her, which she sensed was for us. It was from Isaiah 58, “The Lord will guide you always. He will satisfy your needs in a sun scorched land and will strengthen your frame. You will be like a well-watered garden, like a spring whose waters never fail. Your people will re-build the ancient ruins. You will raise up the age old foundations. You will be called, “Repairer of broken walls, Restorer of streets with dwellings.” (Verses 11,12) Those verses seemed then as now, very appropriate for us and the ministry of this place.

We are now into the last days of Ramadan. We shall be glad when it ends; our staff are very tired, so many things have been on hold during this month and people are more than ready for the now eagerly anticipated Eid and holiday. We too are looking forward to a break. The clinics may have been on shorter time but our days have in truth been longer and even more varied than we had anticipated. We hope to get away for a few days with some new friends in the congregation – Thanos, Alex and Joy from Greece, England and the Philippines, respectively.

We have enjoyed the discussions which the Ramadan season inevitably throws up with staff – the discipline of fasting (and the dangers of over eating too much when you cease fasting) and we felt with Zainab, one of the longest serving of our team here, when she said with feeling one day, “It is very hard to purify the soul.” And Mansour, the administrator, recounted how during Ramadan last year, he had gone on behalf of his relatives in Liverpool to distribute food parcels in a poor quarter of Aden. He borrowed the clinic bus (a faithful vehicle and soon to be replaced) and went to give out the food. The people were grateful, but some protested on seeing the cross on the front of the bus, “Typical, it’s Christians, not our own people who help us.” Poor Mansour. He is a most devout Muslim and a stalwart and generous friend to many.   (Mansour with Elyas - right)

It is good to be back. We remain very, very grateful for your continued prayers, interest and support.

With our very best wishes and love in Christ

Peter and Nancy